Staying warm for snorkelling in cold water

Photo credit: Seawilding

Don’t skimp on the neoprene, says Andy Torbet, after attempting a wintry snorkel in Scotland with insufficient thermal protection.

I have often used this column to encourage folk to continue snorkelling all year round. At the same time I’ve always sought to acknowledging the extra problems that arise, as well as the equipment and procedures that may be required. Along the way, I’ve highlighted my belief that one of snorkelling’s great advantages is its flexibility and reduced logistical burden. 

Put simply, you can use any spare time to jump into suitable sites you may come across on your travels. And so it was during a road trip across the Snow Roads of the Cairngorm National Park. In January. 

The views up here are stunning, especially in winter if you’re fortunate enough to hit the sweet spot of having snow but the road still being open; you drive over the highest public road in the UK, after all. Part of the route took us along the Royal River Dee and near the Linn of Dee, a site I’ve dived in all seasons except winter.  

The Linn is where the river, at this time made up of snow and ice melt, descends from the mountains and cascades over a series of short falls into a steep sided gorge. The pace of water, hard granite bedrock and near-vertical walls create very little sediment and the dark, peat-stained water can have incredible visibility, though it appears almost black from the bank. This dark-tinted clarity is like looking through the world wearing strong sunglasses. Everything is clear, just heavily shaded.

Normally, I’d climb vertically down the cliffs below the waterfall. But I found the rocks armoured by a thick layer of ice and an attempt would have led to a rapid and uncontrolled entry into the roiling plunge pool. Instead I opted to enter at the bottom of the gorge, where the banks are more gentle and the river’s speed has reduced. I carefully picked my way down Gollum-style, using all four limbs and my backside, to the dark waters.

The near-black water looked even more dark and ominous against the white of the snow covered slopes. I slipped carefully into the flow and began my swim upstream, dashing in and out of the eddies at the side to minimise my fight against the current, which only increases as you make progress upstream and the gorge narrows.  

The frigid waters bit against the exposed parts of my lower face and I began to regret my lightweight approach to packing. I’d packed a ‘just-in-case’ snorkel bag. I didn’t want to take too much kit, as I had nothing specific planned. But this bag consisted of a 5mm suit and only 2mm gloves. My body was fine. It was my hands that were getting cold. 

Despite this, and the brash ice that was washing downstream, causing the waters just below the surface waters to look like a snowstorm, the water clarity was still as good, if not better, than during summer trips. I fought, dashed and dodged my way upstream, rode the current back down then repeated. 

By the fourth run, my hands were unable to operate the small camera I’d taken and I decided I should exit. I struggled out of the freezing waters and had to make several uncoordinated attempts to remove my fins. As I climbed the slope, the -8 temperature and icy wind sapped the heat from my damp suit. By the time I’d topped out, I had to use my teeth to remove my gloves as my fingers were no longer operational. It took 24 hours to re-establish full function!. I made it to the comfort and warmth of the campervan and waited until I regained motor function to remove my suit.

I’m a fan of winter snorkelling and of taking the opportunity to get wet when we can. And although I think the sacrifice of being a little uncomfortable was worth it to see this stunning place in the snow, I will pack a little more sensibly next time. Maybe 5mm gloves… or even 7mm mitts. Because any fool can be cold. As I proved well here.

Article ‘Fool’s cold’ by Any Torbet first published in SCUBA magazine, Issue 154 April 2025. Images in this online version may have been substituted from the original images in SCUBA magazine due to usage rights.