Background

When sitting at home at my computer on a quiet Thursday morning  an email arrived from Oonasdivers inviting me to go on MY Juliet, flying to Sharm on the very next Saturday at very competitive price. Well! I thought - sounds interesting but not where I really wanted to go as I had been planning on a Brothers Reef trip later in the year. Oh well, I will get back to them with a counter offer and see what happens. A little while later the phone rings, Sue, my wife, tells me that Alison from Oonas divers is asking to speak to me. Alison made another offer at a price I could still afford. I promised faithfully that I would ring her back in twenty minutes and after a little chat with Sue – in the lines of – “Darling, would you mind if I fly to Sharm on Saturday”? I rang Alison back and confirmed my participation. Frantic packing/grass cutting etc then ensued. Saturday found me in Gatwick picking up my tickets from the XL Airways desk and I was on my way.

How I got there

My flight to Sharm and return was via XL airways. What can I say about this airline? Probably not a lot now they have gone into liquidation.

Arrival onboard Juliet via Sharm airport was fairly simple. We paid our visa in sterling to our operator and were soon on the bus. I had heard that the boat was a dry one in alcoholic terms so I had already bought my sundowners in Gatwick prior to departure. On the bus I met the gang of seven Nottingham Divers who were to be my buddies for the week. They had obviously been briefed prior to arrival as their first priority was to ask the driver go via a booze shop so they could pick up a load of the local Sakara lager. Although the boat is dry Captain Abdo and his crew did not appear to mind our western ways with the occasional, sensible tipple.

We arrived onboard Juliet after midnight tired and hungry. Our local dive guide for the week, Wael Mostafa, treated us gently. We were fed, briefed and document checked very efficiently in quick time. There is always the urge to set up dive equipment on the dive deck very quickly on arrival. I set myself up with the 15 litre cylinder that I always prefer, unpacked and went to my cabin. The MY Juliet website states that it is a big boat but that she only caters for small groups.  The fashion, they say, of Red Sea liveaboards now is to accommodate up to 22, 24, 28 guests, and more!  Juliet takes a maximum of 12 to 14 guests at any one time which means more space, more flexibility, and more personal attention for you. I have to say that during my stay onboard this was certainly correct. It was great to be one diver among a few. As there were only eight divers onboard, having my own cabin was a luxury I enjoyed immensely.

Diving

No need to explain the mechanics of liveaboard diving here as they have featured many times in both my trip reports and others here in the BSAC Travel website. Wael woke us around 0900 for briefing and our check dive. Not for Wael the normal liveaboard check dive off Ras Katy. We made for Stingray City (18m – 55mins) around the corner from Ras Mohammed. Less busy there. Wow!  Amphora shards on site he states – and we did see a few, during what was a very pleasant dive.

We then moved along to the Abu Nuhas reef to dive the Carnatic wreck  (23m – 44 mins)(CTRL + click to follow link to view a short video). Check diving continued here as we had our first dive from the RIB. As with my previous dive I was buddied up with Nottingham PADI diver Phil (alias Graham), who became my firm buddy for the week – cheers mate – enjoyed diving with you!! Knowing the sea temperature would be very warm I forsook my normal five mil steamer and took a mix and match assortment of wetsuits. I wore my two mil shorty at all times with added wetsuit bottom and jersey while diving wrecks for protection from metal edges etc. For reef diving I changed to wetsuit top and shorty. With these combinations I felt warm and comfortable at all times while diving. The sea temperature hovered around a toasty 28 degrees.

The next day  found us diving the wreck of the Chrisoula K (24m – 51mins). Again we dived from the Rib but we were moored onto the wreck. I have dived most of the Abu Nuhas wrecks on previous trips but still enjoyed the cook’s tour around the engine room. Having taken many photos during these trips I determined to use the video facility of my digital computer to add to my YouTube library.

Our second dive of the day was on the Ghiannis D (20m – 47 mins). While on the wreck we were joined by a load of dayboat divers. Luckily we were towards the end of our dive but it got really busy – divers everywhere!! We then upped moorings and were off to the Thistlegorm.

Mooring on the Thistlegorm should not be a problem with its new mooring system but Wael spent a lot of his valuable dive minutes setting up our mooring on the wreck itself. When I asked about the supposed new moorings his reply was in terms that could not be printed here. Our third dive of the day was to be an exploration of the outside of the wreck (27.5m – 46 mins). We descended to the Railway engine then up to the stern having a look at the shells and guns on the way.

So ended my first days diving. A night dive on the Thistlegorm was on offer but I declined due to sheer laziness and the desire to enjoy a sundowner drink on the upper deck. Those who went enjoyed the dive immensely as they did all the other night dives available.

The next day we arose fairly early. Wael was very keen that we were able to enjoy our holiday and not get too tired. Too this end we were awoken at a reasonable time to enable us to enter the water after the very early divers from liveaboards and before the day boats arrived. We descended to enter the inside of the wreck  (24m – 45 mins). There is much to see inside the Thistlegorm. Exits and entrances can be quite tight. I wear a bandana on my head to protect me not only from the sun when I am on the surface but the low deck heads of the wrecks I am diving – bang – ouch – another scar!. We finished our dive in the bow section then onto the rope for three at five. While there my video shows  accompanying dive boat guides struggling with their mooring.

Juliet then moved onto Sha’ab Ali and the wreck of the Kingston. This wreck is fairly shallow and entry onto it was via the Rib and straight onto the stern. On completion of our wreck tour we  inspected the coral garden up current then turned around to drift gently towards our exit point. (18.5m – 55 mins).

Third dive of today was on the Dunraven wreck at Sha’ab Mahmoud. I had never dived his upturned wreck before so was looking forward to it. We fell into the water off the Rib and descended to the wreck. We swam along the side then into the wreck via a large hole in the side. Then through the inside of the wreck and exiting  at the bow to pass along the other side where we came on a largish sleeping humphead wrasse. As with the previous dive we then continued drifting over the reef till our dive time was up. On surfacing I saw Juliet was fairly near. I dumped my gear into the Rib and snorkeled back. (dive - 20.5m – 52 mins). So ended the wreck part of our holiday. We moved on to spend the night near Ras Mohammed.

We arose early today. Wael had already asked me about my previous dives around Ras M. I told him that one of my favourite dives was Anemone City through the blue to Shark Reef. So that is what we did. The anemones at the start of the dive are quite large and beautiful.  We then followed Wael into the blue maintaining a depth of around fifteen metres. Along the way we sighted a very large group of Snappers being followed by a smaller group of Jacks. A little further when in the vicinity of Shark Reef we sighted a largish shoal of barracuda in the distance. We then started heading for the Yolanda wreck but the current was against us. We turned around to make our way into shallow water where we met an aggressive Titan Triggerfish who appeared to take a complete and utter dislike to Nottingham divers J.

We then moved on to Ras Gamila. Our dive here was 19.5m – 52 mins.  This site is close to Sharm and leads out towards the Straits of Tiran. Nice dive with fan corals, an Eagle Ray and also a nice introduction to our forthcoming dives around Jackson, Gordon, Woodhouse and Thomas Reefs.

Our third dive today was on Gordon Reef (20m – 52 mins)  which I remembered very well from my first visit to the area in 1990. No more very large Humpheads being fed boiled eggs although we came across a small grouper attempting to snaffle a Lionfish’s eggs.

The next day Wael made up for those late mornings we had had up to now. We awoke at 0600 and were soon dropping off the Rib, after a very choppy journey, in the vicinity of Jackson Reef. Wael’s mission was to swim into the blue and hover there awaiting the ever elusive Hammerhead.  On this trip we saw one at depth.  We waited around to see if there were anymore then made for the reef where we exited the water, again in very choppy conditions. This dive  - 36m – 35 mins.

Our next two dives were drifts from Jackson to Woodhouse for the first and a reverse profile for the second. Wael’s plan for the first dive (25m – 46 mins) was for us to drift between the reefs with the current. Only problem was there was very little current. So we ended up swimming in the blue for sometime. I enjoyed it as there was the opportunity to see larger, pelagic sea life. Only there wasn’t any. We turned back to finish our dive on Jackson. There was some muttering from my fellow dives about the time spent in the blue but I considered it character forming.  On the second dive (24.5m – 46 mins) we passed along with the reef on our left along a thin peninsular of rock then passed through the blue to Jackson passing an Eagle Ray and a shoal of Blue Fin Trevally on the way.

Last day

Today Wael had us up again early to dive with the Hammerheads. We were off the Rib and in the water before all the accompanying dive boats. Off we went into the blue again. We suddenly sighted a singleton at depth, then a pair. While taking video I suddenly realized I was descending. At 40m and with a minute to go into deco I ascended. At this time we saw a shoal even deeper. Later we heard that day boat divers had descended to 50m+ to see a larger number of Hammerheads. Everyone to their own! (41m – 40 mins).

Our last dive on the reefs was on Thomas Reef (25m – 59 mins). A swim around part of the smallest of the four main reefs. We saw two barracuda just underneath the surface plus loads of other fish life and soft corals. Two sleeping whitetips were seen but at a greater depth than ours.

Finally Juliet made her way to tie up off Ras Um Sid. Having dived this site many years before when it was pristine I return again very reluctantly. During one dive off a previous liveaboard I surfaced to find a snorkel boat riding down my dsmb. Our last dive of the holiday was to be special. We entered the water, almost at dusk, after all the day boats had departed. We were on our own!! Expecting very little I was immediately surprised by coming across a large Humphead Wrasse then a small shoal of barracuda. We continued along the reef all on our own. It certainly was a worthwhile dive (30m – 52 mins). As always during the last few minutes of any holiday in the Red Sea I spend a few moments communing with the colorful corals and small fishes wondering how quick I can get back again. Well done to Wael for making even a dive at Ras Um Sid memorable.

We then remained in the area till the next morning when Juliet returned to Sharm. Next day we were up at 0730 had our breakfast and did our final packing and were then transferred  to Sharks Bay to spend the day on the beach before our flight home in the evening.

The boat

The list of liveaboards I have dived from in the past contains the following; Sea Serpent, Tiger Lily, Snapdragon, Whirlwind, Emperor Fraser, Royal Emperor, Atoll Explorer and finally Juliet. I have enjoyed them all immensely. I have much admiration for the Captains, crew and dive guides of all of them. Some, however, leave me with certain affection for them. Usually when I see them again I remember the buddies and dives I have done with them. A number stand out and I have to say I will remember Juliet in this light. She is not the youngest boat in the Red Sea but has a character all of her own. Wael worked very hard to make our dive programme interesting, even if it didn’t go to plan on every occasion. I prefer my dive guides to be local Egyptian. In this way I get a hard working, straight talking adviser and also an Arabic teacher.

Captain Abdo and his crew worked very hard to make our holiday successful. Their efforts were appreciated very much. The food was excellent and plentiful throughout our stay. My cabin was basic but clean and the air conditioning worked – a very important point at this time of year in the heat of summer.

Juliet’s owner Yasser Gouda is offering four free trips in a draw for those who enter a photo or video taken during a Juliet trip on his Juliet facebook site. My photos and video are already there J. Another off-shoot of this is that my daughters, friends and grandchildren are terribly impressed that I have joined the Facebook generation.

Thanks

Many thanks to our dive guide Wael, Captain Abdo, his crew and to the team of divers from Nottingham Scuba Centre. I enjoyed your company and hope to dive with you all again one day.

Eddie Clamp

BSAC Travel Editor